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I just finished reading a great book, Major Pettigrew's Last Stand, and it has me in a very English countryside kind of mood.  Add the consistently gloomy weather we've had in LA and the fact that the cover of this month's Saveur is a Classic Roast Beef and, now you'll understand why I was inspired to make a classic Sunday supper for my family and guests last night.  Standing rib roast, potato gratin, green beans  and a nice, tart, butter lettuce salad to finish a very decadent meal.  And, oh yeah, our friends brought over a 1997 cab that was so delicious and paired so perfectly with the meal, it almost brought tears to my eyes.  Now, that's my kind of school night.

I love this recipe because it truly is stress-free.  Well, once you get past the expense of the meat, that is!  But if you're going to splurge on a standing rib roast, you don't want to mess it up and this recipe is fool-proof.  The technique (which is brilliant) comes from Amanda Hesser's The Essential New York Times cookbook and the flavor rub comes from The Complete Meat Cookbook.  Cheers!

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Standing Rib Roast

One 2 to 4 bone beef rib roast (4 1/2 to 12 pounds)
Dry rub (see recipe below)
Flour for dusting

Dry Rub (Crush the garlic and salt in a mortar and pestle and mix with the pepper and herbs)
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or thyme

1.  Rub the dry rub all over the roast, especially in any spaces between the meat and bones.  Let the roast sit at room temperature for 2 hours before cooking.

2.  Heat the oven to 500 degrees.  Place the roast in a shallow roasting pan, fat side up.  Sprinkle with a little flour and rub the flour lightly into the fat.

3.  Put the roast in the preheated oven and roast according to the roasting chart below, timing the minutes exactly.

4.  When the cooking time is finished, turn off the oven.  DO NOT open the door at any time.  Allow the roast to remain in the oven untile the oven is lukewarm, about 2 hours.  (Enough time, according to the original recipe from the 1960's, "for a game of golf or an appointment at the hairdresser."  Lol.)  The roast will still have a crunchy brown outside, and an internal heat suitable for serving even after 4 hours.  The meat will be perfectly medium rare in the middle with the end cuts being closer to medium well.

5.  Separate the roast from the ribs (you can ask the butcher to do this for you beforehand and they will tie it together again for roasting) and slice the meat.  Finish with olive oil and Maldon sea salt.

Roasting Chart (at 500 degrees)

2 ribs(4 1/2 to 5 lbs): 25 to 30 minutes
3 ribs (8 to 9 lbs):   40 to 45 minutes
4 ribs (11 to 12 lbs): 55 to 60 minutes

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Roasted Cauliflower (from Gwynnie's My Father's Daughter, again!)

1 head cauliflower, hard core, discarded, cut into small florets
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Pinch coarse salt
Pinch freshly gound black pepper

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees, or 400 if you plan on using convection (my preference).  In a baking sheet or dish large enough to hold the cauliflower in one layer, toss all the ingredients together.  Roast for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is caramelized all over. 

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This is one of the easiest, family and guest-friendly meals you could make. Don't be intimated by the length of the recipes.  Chopping the herbs is a breeze, the pork can be marinated earlier in the day and the rest of the meal is quick and mostly hands-off.  I made this yesterday while helping the kids with homework and getting a lot of emailing done.

If you read braisd regularly, you know I love me some pork.  So, I don't know why it's taken me this long to get pork tenderloin in my repertoire of weeknight meals!  Maybe it's always looked a little too lean and boring to me.  Anyway, I think this recipe will make a convert out of you too.  

The tenderloin comes out moist and delicious with a nice, browned crust of herbs.  The creamy polenta is the perfect accompaniment to the pork.  And an easy pan sauce adds just the right touch of savoriness. Toss a nice salad and, voila--an impressive yet easy meal.  Both recipes serve 4 to 6 people.  Bon appetit!

Roasted Pork Tenderloin (from The Complete Meat Cookbook by Aidells and Kelly)

Herb Rub for Pork [Combine all ingredients to make the herb rub.  If you're too busy for this, you can just season the pork with salt and pepper--but this doesn't take very long and the flavors are worth it]
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon crushed fennel seeds
1 teaspoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons garlic powder or granulated garlic
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper 

Two 3/4 to 1 1/4  pound pork tenderloins, trimmed of silverskin and fat
1 tablespoon olive oil 

Pan Sauce
2 tablespoons chopped shallots or green onions or scallions (I used some baby red onions that my farm fresh delivery had sent earlier in the week--delicious)
1/2 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper 

Rub the herbs and spices over the meat.  You may cook it right away or put in a shallow bowl with the marinade; cover the bowl.  Marinate for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator, turning the meat occasionally.  If the meat has been refrigerated, remove it from the fridge 30 minutes before cooking.  

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Heat the olive oil in a heavy, ovenproof skillet (I use a cast iron pan) over medium high heat.  Brown the tenderloins lightly, turning them frequently to brown on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes total.  place the skillet in the oven and roast the pork for 12 to 15 minutes or until the internal temperature is 145 to 150 degrees.  Let the meat rest on a platter for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, make the pan sauce.  Place the pan over medium heat.  Add the shallots or green onions and cookd for 30 seconds, stirring well.  Stir in the wine.  Bring to a boil, add the stock, and reduce until the sauce just turns syrupy.  

Taste for salt and pepper.  Carve the meat into 1/2 inch thick slices and serve with the sauce.

4 cups water
1 cup polenta
Coarse salt
Kernels from 1 fresh ear of corn
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup cream
1-2 tablespoons white truffle butter or white truffle oil (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, for serving

Bring the water to a boil in a small soup pot.  Slowly whisk the polenta and a pinch of salt.   Turn the heat as low as it can go, put a lid on slightly ajar, and cookd the polenta for 40 minutes, stirring every 5-10 minutes.  Add the corn, milk, cream and truffle butter or oil and cook for 5 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper and serve sprinkled with chives.

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This recipe falls in the deceptively simple, yet impressive, delicious and special enough for guests category.  I love whole fish the same way I love roasting a whole chicken.  It results in an incredibly flavorful, moist fish.  I've grilled a lot of whole fish this summer and the flavor has been great, but I haven't gotten the hang of getting it to look pretty.  The skin keeps sticking to the grill and it's difficult to tell when it's done!  I'm still working on it--will report back.  But meanwhile, this recipe has you roasting the fish which is a lot more foolproof.  Great flavor, timing is a breeze and the fish actually remains intact and pretty for the table.  Hmmm...come to think of it, I may never go back to grilling a whole fish.

Plus, the seasoned fish can sit in the fridge for a few hours, so there is no last minute prep and it allows you to enjoy cocktail hour with your guests.  And, by the way, this recipe come from Gwyneth Paltrow's new cookbook, My Father's Daughter, which is surprisingly awesome.  Lots of simple, healthy and family-friendly recipes.  Shout out to Gwynnie (and Kenny and Jenny who gave me the cookbook!).

Whole Roasted Fish

 1 very fresh whole sea bass or whatever fish is good, fresh and local (at least 2 pounds), scaled and gutted [I used a whole white fish from Santa Monica seafood--perfection)
1 tablespoon each fresh tarragon, basil, chives and parsley
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Coarse salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.  

Cut 4 or 5 slits on each side of the fish, about 1/2 inch into the flesh.  Combine the herbs and roughly chop them.  Stuff each opening with a slice of lemon and a little bit of the herb mixture.  Put any remaining herbs and lemon slices in the cavity of the fish.  Lay the fish in a large roasting pan (or sturdy baking sheet with a cooling rack on top, which is what I did).  Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with black pepper and salt.  The dressed fish can sit in the fridge for a few hours, if you want to prepare ahead. Roast for 30-40 minutes, or until the fish is firm but still moist.

To serve, gently spoon the top fillet of the bone.  You can then easily peel the spine off in one piece from the bottom half.  Serve with plenty of Salsa Verde.

Salsa Verde [I modified this recipe a bit after tasting, adding more vinegar and olive oil]

6 oil packed anchovies
1 generous teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup roughly chopped parsley
1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh basil
1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh chives
1/3 cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Put anchovies in a bowl and cut into small pieces with a knife and fork (great tip on how to save a cutting board to wash---thanks Gwynnie).  Stir in the mustard and vinegar.  Add the herbs, slowly stream in the olive oil, and season with pepper.  Can be made ahead, but it must be eaten on the same day.

Bon appetit!

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The best way to describe the menu is Southeast Asian tapas, heavy on the Vietnamese and Thai influences.  The meal was perfect through and through.  Cocktails are outstanding and the liquor, wine and beer selections are eclectic, obscure and wonderfully curated.  The service was attentive and and the waitstaff was very knowledgeable and well-oiled--impressive, since the place just opened a few days ago.  But ultimately, it's all about the food, right?  Well, the food was mind-blowingly good.  Beyond good--everything we had (and, trust me, we had a lot of the menu) was so excitingly different, yet so comfortably delicious and satisfying.  

One word of caution.  This place is not for the spice-adverse.  As you'll see below, most of the dishes have a nice kick to them--which I happen to love.  It's also probably why the six of us ended up having three bottles of wine at dinner!

Instead of a formal review--here's a virtual tour of our amazing meal.  Bon appetit.

Lukshon sour.  Their twist on the whisky sour, made with small batch rye and kalamansi juice (a popular citrus in the Philippines that is a cross between orange and lime).  Great start to a great meal.

Spanish Mackerel sashimi with a spicy, pickled green papaya salad.  Spanish Mackerel is not normally one of my favorites--a little too oily and fishy for my taste.  But this was so delicious--the fish was perfectly balanced by the tart, spicy salad-- we ordered seconds.  

Malpeque oysters with a Thai-influenced mignonette.  The briny silkiness of the oysters played oh so very well with the sweet-spicy sauce.  We had seconds of this too.

Spicy chicken pops.  The kechap manis (a sweet soy sauce) lent an Indonesian touch to these chicken drumettes and the spicy Sichuan salt was the perfect foil to the sweetness of the soy sauce.  An elevated version of chicken wings.  

Scallop sashimi with a water chestnut cucumber relish and prawn salt (this place knows how to have fun with its salts!).  The relish and the salt really highlighted the natural sweetness of the scallops.  Divine.  

Garlic pork belly with rice cakes cabbage and garlic chives in a deep, dark sauce with a kick.  Wow.

Mussels in a Thai green curry sauce thickened by tapioca.  Yep, we ordered seconds of this too.

Shrimp toast.  What's not to like about the fried goodness of shrimp with croutons, chiles and cilantro?

Kurobuta pork ribs in a spicy chicory bbq sauce.  The combination of the caramelized crust, the falling-off-the-bone tenderness and the finger-lickin' good sauce could bring happy tears to your eyes.  

Duck popiah.  A riff on Vietnamese spring roll with pickled jicama and house-made hoisin chile sauce.  Light and refreshing.

Heirloom black rice with onion, roasted garlic and fried egg.  I'm a sucker for anything served with a fried egg on top and this did not disappoint.  The rice had an awesome nutty, garlicky flavor that melded perfectly with the runny egg yolk.  So simple and so good.

Dandan noodles with ground pork, preserved mustard greens and Sichuan peppercorns.  This goes down as one of the most interesting dishes I've ever had.  When we ordered it, the waitress warned us that it would be served last.  Why, do you ask?  Well, apparently, Sichuan peppercorns have a numbing property that, when served in copious amounts can, errr, numb your tongue.  We, of course, ordered it to satisfy our piqued curiosity.  Verdict.  The noodles had a pleasant, intense, umami flavor that defies description.  Good in small amounts.  And, yes, our tongues were numb for a few minutes afterward.  Not a spicy sensation, but just a plain tingling numbness.

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It's that time of year again.  The Saveur 100 is an eclectic, creative and enlightening list of all things related to food and I look forward to its arrival every January.  This year, they've decided to do a Chef's edition, allowing chefs from all over the world submit some of their favorite tools, books, ingredients, restaurants, tips, recipes and more.  Fun!  After devouring the issue from cover to cover in one sitting, I thought I'd share some highlights.

#79 Sea salt coffee.  I love my salty sweet combinations and this Taiwanese concoction sounds right up my alley.  I will have to check out the bakery that serves it next time I'm in Irvine.

So, what are you waiting for?  Grab an issue before it sells out (it does every year)!  Happy reading.

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Ziti With Roasted Zucchini

2 pounds medium zucchini, trimmed, cut into 1/4 inch rounds (great time to bust out that mandoline!)
12 garlic cloves, peeled, halved
8 large shallots, halved, thinly sliced (mandoline comes in handy again)
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1 lb box ziti, cooked al dente, drained,, 3/4 cup cooking liquid reserved
1 cup chopped fresh basil, divided
3/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Toss zucchini, garlic, shallots, 5 tablespoons oil, and crushed red pepper in a bowl.  Spread on large rimmed baking sheet; sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Roast vegetables until tender, turning occasionally, 30- to 35 minutes.*  

Place cooked pasta in large pot.  Add roasted vegetables, 1/4 cup pasta cooking liquid and 1 tablespoon olive oil; stir over medium heat until heated through.  Add 3/4 cup basil and cheese.  Toss, adding reserved cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls to moisten if dry.  Season to taste with salt and pepper (make sure to taste--the pecorino is salty).  Transfer pasta to a large platter.  Sprinkle pasta with remaining 1/4 cup basil.  

*NOTE:  This can be done 1 to 2 hours ahead of time.  Once cooled, you can even transfer the vegetables to a large pot so you're ready for the next step and clean up the baking sheet.  I'm all about efficiency!

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And, the recipes--well, let's just say I have about one hundred post-it notes marking all the ones I want to make so far.  It's been cold in L.A. and our family has been spending a lot of time in the mountains--so, the hearty French fare in the book is exactly what we've been craving.  I've made about ten recipes from the book so far and the family has given each one a huge thumbs up.  

All the soups have been outstanding--particularly the Spicy Vietnamese Noodle Soup.  So easy to make and the perfect meal after a day of skiing--a total crowd-pleaser.  Continuing on the Asian-French fusion theme, we've also enjoyed the Coconut-Lemongrass Braised Pork recipe.  Such great layers of flavors and so comforting simply served on a bed of rice.  The Braised Short Rib recipe in the book is a winner too.  I particularly like how the recipe calls for broiling the meat before braising--so much easier and much less of a mess than browning it in oil.  We had it for dinner last night and it was a big hit.  

If one of your New Year's resolutions is to cook more often, I highly recommend this book.  The recipes are easy, delicious and impressive.  What more can you ask for?

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The recipe also calls for Maggi seasoning sauce which can be found in the Asian section of most supermarkets (but not Whole Foods)--it is really worth trying to find this sauce if you don't have it.  It adds a level of depth to the marinade that soy sauce just can't provide--it is the ultimate umami flavoring.  Just a whiff of it reminds me of my mom's kitchen when I was a kid.  Enjoy.

Marinade
4 large cloves garlic, finely minced
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
3 1/2 tablespoons Maggi seasoning sauce OR light regular soy sauce 
2 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

4 pounds chicken (drumsticks, thighs and/or wings)

1.  To make the marinade, in a bowl large enough to accommodate the chicken, combine the garlic, sugar, salt, pepper, Maggi sauce, and oil and mix well.  Add the chicken pieces and use your fingers to massage the marinade into the flesh, distributing the seasonings as evenly as possible.  When possible, peel back the skin to get some marinade between the flesh and skin.  Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours for the best flavor.

2.  Thirty minutes before roasting, remove the chicken from the refrigerator.  Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and put the chicken pieces skin side down, on the sheet.  Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.

3.  Put the chicken in the oven.  After about 15 minutes, you will hear gentle sizzling.  At that point, using tongs, turn the pieces over and continue to roast until the skin is nicely browned and crispy and the juices run clear when a piece is poked in the meatiest part with a toothpick.  The roasting time depends on the size of the pieces, but in general it will take 40 to 60 minutes total (including initial 15 minutes).  If a lot of fat and juices accumulate in the pan during roasting, remove the chicken from the pan, pour off the fat, and then quickly return the chicken and continue roasting.  Serve the chicken hot, warm, or at room temperature.  

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Meanwhile, I've  also been a bit uninspired by the new restaurants I've tried lately. I even got a coveted reservation at LudoBites 6.0 recently and it frankly wasn't even worth writing about.

But last night, Doug and I trekked out to Culver City to check out A Frame--the latest venture by Roy Choi of Kogi BBQ Trucks fame--and it was definitely blog-worthy.  

First, kudos to the designers for embracing the fact that the restaurant is housed in a former IHOP.  The iconic A-frame structure is intact--there's no mistaking what it was--but the place has been transformed into a hip, contemporary scene.  All tables are communal and there's just a great vibe to the whole place.  The kind of place where you stop for a drink and end up staying the night. 

Let's start with the drinks.  The cocktail menu lives up to the whole mixology trend sweeping the nation.  There are your classic cocktails (think Mai Tais and Sazeracs) and then there are the fun, new cocktails.  

I opted for the Anchorman, a blend of Scotch, ginger, agave nectar and lemon.  Smooth, citrusy with just a hint of leather from the Scotch.  Delicious--hadn't ever really had a cocktail with Scotch before.  Doug went for the Fine Print--aged rum, hibiscus, falernum, lime and orange.  Also very tasty.  But one of our friends ordered what may have been my favorite--The Only One which combines vodka, cucumber, agave nectar and lime.  Not too sweet, just the right hint of cucumber with the flavor of the vodka seeping through.  We were all in a great mood by the time the first plates started trickling in.  

We started with Hawaiian style Kettle Corn with seaweed, warm butter, chives and spices.  So fun and great with our cocktails.  The House-Cured Heirloom Pickles with creamy dip and sweet, grassy olive oil was also a huge hit.  

The menu is meant to be shared and eaten with your fingers.  There are utensils on the tables, but why use them?  This was so much more fun!  We went on to try almost everything on the menu (it's a small menu!)--in fact, we ordered so much that the chef came out to see the crazy four-top that ordered all that food.  We ate and loved every single thing.  Here are the highlights.  

The Cracklin' Beer Can Chicken with Century Egg, Salsa Roja and Verde was sublime.  Apparently, they air-dry the chicken for two days and then put it in the rotisserie for some ridiculously long time.  Whatever they did, it was well worth the time and the effort.  We were picking this chicken apart by the end of the meal.

The air-dried (this is making me want to air-dry something at home) Baby Back Ribs with Hoisin-Chili Glaze, Green Onion and Sesame was outstanding.  Perfect ribs in my opinion--not too sloppy with glaze, crunchy on the outer edges, moist closer to the bone and with a nice kick of spice.

Then there was the Peel-n-Eat Shrimp with Kaffir Lime Leaf, Dried Shrimp Salt with Cocktail Sauce.  Wow.  They actually instruct you to peel the shrimp, dip it into the sauce, eat it AND THEN lick your fingers to get one last hint of the kaffir lime/shrimp salt combination.  My mouth is watering just thinking about it.  That gives "finger-lickin' good" new meaning.

Another favorite was the seemingly boring Vegetable Tempura.  A Frame's version comes with kabocha pumpkin and broccoli rabe tempura paireed with a shoyu dipping sauce.  So simple and so delicious.  What made it so outstanding was that there was very little tempura going on and a whole lot of vegetable.  You got the crunch but really tasted the vegetable.  

Of course we couldn't leave without trying one thing from the "Cavities" section of the menu--I really did love the restaurant's sense of humor.  We had to go with the "Chu Don't Know Mang."  Pound cake churros, cinnamon, and malted chocolate milk with ice cream.  I know, I had you at Chu.  And, when you go, don't forget to drink the malted chocolate milk after every bite of churro.  

As you can tell, I was a big fan of this place and I can't wait to come back.  We need more restaurants like this.  Not only was every plate interesting, different and delicious, it was just plain fun--and affordable to boot.  Roy Choi is having a blast and we get to be the lucky beneficiaries of his whimsy.  

A-Frame, 12565 Washington Boulevard, Culver City, 310.398.7700, aframela.com

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After Rowardennan, we moved on to Inverarnan.  We spent the entire day walking along Loch Lomond.  The landscape was breathtaking.  Definitely my favorite day on the hike.

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Wildflowers, wild goats, gnarly, mossy, trees silhouetted against Loch Lomond, every different kind of green you could possibly imagine and then more--the kind of beauty that leaves you speechless.  When we decided to do this hike, this is what I imagined it would be.

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After a 16-mile day, a misty rain was falling as we arrived at Beinglas Farm in Inverarnan.  There were some campsites on the farm as well and we spent our hot showers thanking our lucky stars we weren't pitching a tent in the rain.  They had just built these cozy cabins the previous year and it made for the most charming accommodations on the hike.  And, of course, one of the oldest pubs in Scotland just happened to be a hop, skip and a jump away--Drover's Inn.  We played some spades by the roaring fire and tried a few different scotches to go along with our meal.  A great way to end a spectacular day.

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As you may have noticed, wi-fi became pretty scarce early on in our hike.  This may not be a very blogger thing to say, but I really didn't mind.  The huge appeal of traveling for me is getting away.  And these days, you have to work pretty hard to actually get away from it all.  Wi-fi, cell phones, iPads, laptops--they all conspire to keep you connected even in the most remote places.  

By the second or third day of the West Highland Way, we were pretty disconnected from the world in a really wonderful way.  Rosanne and I literally spent hours discussing the different types of pine trees we were seeing on one stretch of the hike.  We all mused that we never knew so many shades of green existed.  Doug and I had deep, lengthy conversations of the kind we never seem to have time for at home.  We discovered the difference between lamb, hogget and mutton.  We discussed European politics with a retired Poli-Sci professor in a crowded pub.  We psycho-analyzed our kids from afar.  This was a hike that fed my body, mind and soul.  Sometimes you just need to re-charge like that.

Here are some photo highlights from the rest of the hike.

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Rolled into Drymen a couple of hours ago after a glorious 12 mile hike.  This morning, we woke up to blue skies and sunny weather--apparently a rarity in Scotland, particularly the Highlands.  We had a leisurely breakfast of toast, baked beans, roasted tomato, mushrooms and eggs.  Afterward, we filled up on water and officially started the 96 mile journey from Milngavie to Fort William.
 
Since it starts from a suburb outside of Glasgow, I wasn't expecting this part of the hike to be particularly stunning.  I figured the dramatic scenery would start as we moved further away from civilization.  But almost as soon as we started walking, we were greeted with spectacularly lush greenery and an abundance of wild daffodils.  Happy cows and sheep dotted the rolling fields of green and the sun breaking through the flitting dark clouds created beautifully atmospheric lighting.  

The weather was perfect for hiking--brisk and energizing.  We discovered moorish patches of land where Rosanne and I imagined Heathcliff on horseback, brooding as he rode with the wind on his back.  We wandered through dark forests filled with moss-covered trees that our kids would have certainly appreciated as the most magical setting for a giant game of hide-and-seek.  Every once in a while, despite the sunshine, bursts of light rain and hail would patter softly on our shoulders.

After about seven miles, we came upon the Glendoyne Scotch Distillery.  Of course we made the  detour.  We climbed over a wooden stile (we figured returning this way was part of the post-scotch tasting sobriety test) and, after a brief traffic jam involving some surly cows and lackadaisical sheep, we were inside a cozy tasting room.  The place smelled peaty, grassy, woodsy.  We tried the 10 year (unpleasantly fiery), the 17 year (mellowed, more refined with hints of caramel) and the 21 year (brilliant--aged in sherry casks, it had sweet undertones and a complex, earthy flavor).  Doug ended up carrying two small bottles of the 21 year old Scotch on the rest of our hike.  We will definitely be busting those out after the challenging 20-mile hike days ahead.

Less than a half mile after the distillery, we stopped at the Beech Tree Pub for lunch.  The meal was a welcome break--we were ravenous after walking and tasting scotch all morning.  What was most memorable about lunch, however, was not lunch itself.  It was dessert.  Rosanne was intrigued by the Deep Fried Mars Bar on the menu and insisted on ordering it.  Apparently, the owners have tried to remove this item from the menu a number of times only to be met with vigorous protest.  So, there it was on the menu, beckoning Rosanne.          

 

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When it arrived, looking like a phallic piece of tempura and strangely accompanied by orange sherbet, we cautiously took our forks to it.  I was not a big fan--it was just too much.  The batter was heavy and oily, and the Mars bar (a European version of the Milky Way bar, by the way) was sickeningly sweet after it had been fried.  The best part of the whole concoction was the orange sherbet.  But now, I can safely check deep-fried candy bars off the to-do list.

The rest of the hike was pleasant and peaceful.  We arrived at the Hawthorns B + B in the late afternoon, where Natalie, the very friendly proprietor, showed us our comfortable rooms and suggested we head to the local spa for a steam and jacuzzi.  A soothing balm for our tired bodies.  

After our restorative spa stop, we showered and headed over to the Clachan Pub for pints, cards and dinner.  Clachan Pub, established in 1734, is the oldest pub in Scotland.  The pub is charming and cozy--worn copper bars, heavy drapery, red velvet booths, tartan rugs and a real sense of history.  The pints hit the spot, I didn't lose too badly at cards and, at dinner, I finally tasted my first haggis.  

Haggis is a traditional Scottish dish containing sheep's heart, liver and lungs minced with onion, oatmeal, spices and salt.  Typically, the haggis is simmered in the animal's stomach for about three hours.  My kids found this description to be so gross they, of course, made me promise to try it.  I had to fulfill my promise. The haggis that I had tonight was stuffed into a butterflied filet mignon and served with a whisky cream sauce.  Not bad, not bad at all.           

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Woke up late this morning--still recovering from a bit of jet lag.  The boys set off early to get a proper shave before we go on our hike.  They came back with a great story (90 year old barber from Cypress who used to be the personal barber for the Archbishop of Canterbury), but not such a great shave.  We all got a good laugh out of it.  Rosanne and I met for tea at the hotel bar to tide over our morning hunger.

We were leaving on a train to Glasgow today to begin our trek.  But not before lunch.  We needed something quick, satisfying and decidedly NOT English.  We figure we'll be eating Scottish food on our hike all week, so we were looking for some ethnic flavor before we immersed ourselves in the land of haggis.  If you don't know what haggis is, keep reading my blog and you will--I've promised my children video footage of me trying it!

A walk around the neighborhood lead us to Ping Pong Dim Sum.  We sat at the bar where we watched the open kitchen in action.  The menu is comprised various Asian-inspired tapas.  Vietnamese Spring Rolls, Chive Dumplings, Chinese Greens with Deep Fried Shallots in a Soy Sauce, Crispy Pork Puffs--you get my drift.  

The food was fresh, flavorful and exactly what we were looking for.  My personal favorite was the Prawn, Coconut Water and Mushroom soup.  It had the same tartness and complexity of a Thai coconut soup, but much lighter and broth-like because instead of coconut milk, they used coconut water.  Such a soulful soup.

The tea selection was fun too.  We tried the Lemongrass Iced Tea, the Lychee Iced Tea and the Kalamansi (a Filipino citrus that is a cross between a lime and an orange) Iced Tea--all yummy.  I think the Kalamansi (surprise surprise) was my favorite, particularly since it came with some boba.  

After chatting up the chef, we were surprised to discover that Ping Pong is a chain of Dim Sum places--they have around twelve locations throughout London.  I would have never guessed that given the ambience and the quality of the food--it truly seemed one-of-a-kind.  Highly recommended for a casual, quick and fun lunch.

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By the way, I should mention that we stayed at the Soho Hotel while we were in London and I'm a big fan.  The rooms are surprisingly roomy (this is London we're talking about here), light-filled and tastefully decorated.  The service was top-notch (we got to check in at 11am so we could nap after our long flight) and the hotel bar super-hip.  It is also very central and within walking distance to a bunch of shopping areas and cool-looking restaurants.  Plus, who can resist a hotel that has a gigantic Botero sculpture in the lobby?

Next post from Scotland...

www.pingpongdimsum.com

www.firmdale.com

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Doug and I both turn 40 this year.  As part of our 80th birthday celebration, we've decided to trek through the Highlands of Scotland with our close friends Rosanne and Karsten.  But since we had to fly through London, the guys thought it'd be a great idea to spend the night and see Chelsea's last game (Chelsea whooped Wigham's ass 8-0 and won the premiership) of the season before heading off to Glasgow.  As it happens, we also have some great friends in town who are living the expat life--so, this was a great chance to catch up with them as well.

After a lot of haggling back and forth as to where to go for dinner--so many restaurants in London are closed Sunday night and I kept suggesting places that were apparently an hour away by cab--we settled on Amaya Bar and Grill in Chelsea.  

Amaya is an Indian Fusion restaurant that takes a contemporary riff on classic Indian grilling techniques and ingredients.  The result is food that is seductively fragrant, intricately flavored and unconventionally delicious.  Since the conversation was flowing and nobody wanted to spend a lot of time dissecting the expansive menu, we opted for the regular Tasting Menu (there is a Royal Tasting Menu that sounded amazing but it was an intimidating amount of food, even for me!).  I had also been told by a friend not to miss the Rock Oysters, so I threw in an order of those.

I'll start by saying that the food was flying off the table so quickly that I barely had time to take photographs.  We started with an Indian version of Minced Chicken in Lettuce Cups along with an entire array of condiments--finely ground peanuts (Karsten compared it to crack it was so addictive), finely ground rose petals, rhubarb chutney and a spicy tomato chutney.  What an explosion of flavors.  Freshly-baked Naan also graced the table.

Next came the famous Rock Oysters.  Flash-grilled and served with an unbelievably yummy curry sauce, this was definitely my favorite course.  Even the non-oyster fans at the table ooohed and aaahed. 

After this, we were treated to a traditional Tandoori Chicken that our friend Scott was convinced had a hint of calendula?  Whatever it was, the result was a chicken that was comfortingly familiar yet pleasantly different.  The chicken was served with a Rose Petal Raita with bits of pomegranate seed--a surprising combination that really worked.

Then it was on to Grilled Veal Rolls that looked like a traditional ground kebab, filled with the most delicious paste of...was it red pepper?  The vegetable courses were delicious in their own right.  Browned broccoli served with yogurt elevated this humble vegetable into a meal unto its own.  And everyone was a huge fan of the beautifully presented sweet potatoes served with a sweetish curry sauce.  

A Grouper Kebab wrapped in banana leaves came next.  This had a wonderfully smoky flavor that contrasted perfectly with the sweetness of the fish.  

Deliciously spiced Ground Lamb and a boldly flavored Grilled Chicken (the marinade was like an Indian version of pesto) rounded out the savory portion of the Tasting Menu.  Dessert was a light serving of key lime pie, macerated blueberries and refreshing mint gelee.  

We were a happy, satisfied bunch by the end of the night.  The round table was conducive to great conversation with good friends, the service was friendly and the family style servings were a nice reminder of the beauty of a truly shared meal. 

www.amaya.biz

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